Eating Chihuahua

Not the dog, the place...

If you wanted to sum up the cuisine of the Mexican state of Chihuahua, you could do worse than the dish I ate for lunch one day at Los Mezquites: Seared skirt steak with roasted Anaheim chiles and lots of melty cheese, served with tortillas.

These three ingredients — beef, green chiles and cheese — dominated a week-long exploration of Chihuahua’s culina…