Arzak: A Rare Fine Dining Win
My faith in haute cuisine is still shaken, but this dinner did not disappoint
I’ve eaten in many temples of haute cuisine, and I am here to say that most have left me deeply unsatisfied. A recent night at Arzak, in San Sebastian, Spain, did not. But it is the exception that proves the rule.
Ultra high-end dining tends toward the soulless. It seems needy, in a sort of look-at-me way at…